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Home Inspection

Chimney Inspection Report

A chimney and fireplace inspection report for home inspectors and sweeps: the appliance and fuel, the stack above the roof (crown, cap, flashing, masonry, height), the firebox and hearth, damper and smoke chamber, the flue liner as far as it can be seen, gas and stove details, clearances to anything that burns, smoke and CO alarms, what could not be inspected and why, and recommendations. It says plainly in the report when the flue was not video-scanned.

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This form goes deep on one chimney. Doing the full inspection of the house as well? The general report covers the fireplace in a single section: Home inspection report — the whole house, system by system

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Inspection Details

Whose house, which chimney, and how far this inspection went.

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Buyer, seller, agent, tenant — or nobody.

This report covers what could be seen from accessible places without dismantling anything. Hidden parts of the flue and the framing around the chimney can only be judged with a camera scan or by opening walls.

If you did not scan it, choose No — the sentence prints in the report as written.

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Appliance and Fuel

What burns here, and where it sits in the house.

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This decides which questions follow — choose what you actually see, not what the listing says.

For prefab fireplaces, stoves and gas units the label sets the clearances and approved parts. Photograph it.

A hot firebox limits what you can look at. Say so under limitations.

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Chimney Exterior

The stack from the roofline up: height, crown, cap, flashing and masonry.

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Common guide: at least 3 ft above where it leaves the roof, and 2 ft above any part of the building within 10 ft sideways. A short chimney drafts poorly.

Look for cracks, missing pieces, and a crown that is just a thin mortar wash with no overhang to throw water clear of the brick.

Without a cap, rain, birds and animals get straight into the flue.

Good: sound, normal wear. Fair: working, with wear to watch. Poor: needs repair soon. Defective: failed, unsafe or not doing its job.

A gap between the chimney and the siding, widening toward the top, usually means the footing has moved.

Step and counter flashing should be let into the mortar joints, not just glued to the face with sealant.

Commonly wanted where the chimney is wider than about 30 in across the slope; without one, water and debris pile up behind it.

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Fireplace, Firebox and Hearth

The opening in the room: the firebox walls, the lintel, the hearth and the face.

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Masonry: firebrick and the joints between them. Prefab: the refractory panels — a crack wide enough to slip a coin into is worth reporting.

A sagging lintel or rust lifting the brick above it are both reportable.

Good: sound, normal wear. Fair: working, with wear to watch. Poor: needs repair soon. Defective: failed, unsafe or not doing its job.

Common guide: 16 in in front and 8 in each side for an opening under 6 sq ft; 20 in and 12 in for larger ones. Prefab units follow their label.

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Damper and Smoke Chamber

What closes the flue, and the space above the firebox, seen with a light.

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Shine a light up past the damper. Rough, stepped walls and missing parging slow the draft and collect creosote.

Anything beyond light soot means the chimney should be swept before the next fire.

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Flue and Liner

The passage for smoke and gases — as much of it as could be seen.

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Look down from the top and up from the damper with a strong light. Record only what you saw; the rest belongs under limitations unless the flue was scanned.

An unlined masonry flue lets heat and gases through the joints toward the house framing.

Good: sound, normal wear. Fair: working, with wear to watch. Poor: needs repair soon. Defective: failed, unsafe or not doing its job.

A fireplace should have a flue to itself. A furnace or water heater tied into it is a carbon monoxide risk.

A flue much smaller than about a tenth of the opening area often leads to a fireplace that smokes.

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Clearances to Combustibles

How close wood, trim, framing and belongings sit to the heat.

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Common guide for masonry fireplaces: nothing combustible within 6 in of the opening, and anything sticking out more than 1.5 in kept 12 in away. Prefab and gas units follow their label.

Common guide: about 2 in between an interior masonry chimney and framing, 1 in on an exterior one; metal chimneys follow their label.

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Smoke and CO Alarms Nearby

Whether anyone would be warned if this appliance went wrong.

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Any fuel-burning appliance warrants one — wood, gas, pellet or coal.

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Other Fireplaces and Flues in the House

Anything else that burns, in brief — or a report of its own if it needs one.

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Other fireplaces, stoves or flues

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Limitations — Not Inspected

What could not be seen today, and why.

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Summary and Recommendations

Is it safe to light, and what should happen first.

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Recommendations

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Two or three sentences a buyer can read first.

Sign above — Inspector

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A chimney inspection report records what a fireplace, stove or gas appliance and its chimney looked like on the day: the stack above the roof, the opening in the room, the damper, the flue as far as you could see it, and how close anything that can burn sits to the heat. This template follows that order, changes its questions to suit the appliance — wood, gas, insert or stove — and states plainly whether the flue was scanned with a camera. You can fill it in here and download a finished PDF without creating an account.

What a visual chimney inspection can and cannot tell a buyer

Most of a chimney is out of sight. From the roof you see the crown, the cap, the flashing and the top few feet of the liner; from the room you see the firebox, the damper and, with a strong light, the smoke chamber. Everything in between — the joints of a clay liner thirty feet up, the gap between the chimney and the framing inside a wall — is hidden.

That is why chimney specialists talk about levels of inspection. A visual check of the readily accessible parts is the first. Running a camera up the whole flue is the next, and it is the usual recommendation when a house changes hands or after a chimney fire. If you did not scan the flue, choose the answer that says so: it prints in the report, so nobody reads a clean visual inspection as a clean liner.

Let the appliance decide the questions

A masonry fireplace, a prefab metal fireplace, a wood stove on a hearth pad and a direct-vent gas unit fail in different ways. The form asks what the appliance is first, then shows only what applies. Gas units get the shutoff, the flame, the vent termination and — for gas logs in a wood-burning firebox — whether the damper is held open. Stoves and inserts get the connector pipe, the pass-through and the floor protection. A freestanding stove skips the firebox and damper questions entirely.

The defects worth calling out

A handful of findings explain most chimney fires, leaks and carbon monoxide calls. Each of these is flagged so it lands in the report's summary:

  • A cracked or missing crown, or no cap — water gets into the masonry and the flue, and the freeze-thaw cycle does the rest.
  • Flashing that has pulled out of the joints, especially on the uphill side of a wide chimney with no cricket.
  • A flue with no liner, broken tiles or gaps between them, or two appliances sharing one flue.
  • Glazed, tar-like creosote — the fuel for a chimney fire.
  • A hearth extension that is too short, or a mantel and trim too close to the opening.
  • An insert vented into the smoke chamber instead of up a liner to the top.
  • No working smoke alarm or carbon monoxide alarm near the appliance.

Rules of thumb, not code citations

The hints mention common guides — a chimney commonly rises at least three feet above the roof where it exits and two feet above anything within ten feet; a hearth extension commonly reaches 16 inches in front of a small opening. They are there to help you judge what you see. Local code and the appliance maker's listing govern; a home inspector reports conditions, and the specialist confirms compliance.

Common questions

What should a chimney inspection report include?

The type of appliance and fuel, the condition of the chimney outside (crown, cap, flashing, masonry, height), the firebox and hearth, the damper and smoke chamber, the flue liner as far as it was visible, clearances to combustibles, smoke and CO alarms nearby, what could not be inspected and why, and clear recommendations with who should do the work.

Is this a Level 2 chimney inspection?

Only if you scanned the flue with a camera and record it here. The form works for a visual inspection of the accessible parts, and the scope question at the top makes the report say plainly when no video inspection of the flue was done.

Do I need to go on the roof?

No. Record where you saw the chimney from — the roof, a ladder at the eaves, binoculars from the ground or drone images — and if the top could not be seen, list it under limitations. Do not walk a roof that is steep, wet or fragile to complete a form.

Can I use it for a gas fireplace?

Yes. Choose the gas appliance type and the form asks about the shutoff valve, whether the burner lit with its normal controls, the flame, the vent termination for direct-vent units, the oxygen depletion sensor on vent-free units and the damper clamp for gas logs. Lighting pilots is left to a gas fitter.

The house has two fireplaces — do I need two reports?

Not necessarily. Inspect the main chimney in full, then add the others to the short list near the end with their location, type, condition and concerns. If a second chimney has serious problems, a separate report for it reads more clearly.