A tree planting inspection checks that new trees are worth what was paid for them and are put in the ground in a way that lets them live. Most young trees that die in their first few years were planted too deep, kept dry, strangled by their own roots or ties, or buried in a mulch volcano — all things you can see on the day of planting or at a follow-up visit. This checklist covers the stock as it arrives, the hole and the depth, backfill, staking, mulch and water, and then each establishment visit, scored so every miss becomes a correction with an owner. Fill it in here and download a PDF without an account, or speak while you walk, and the document writes itself.
Reject it at the truck, not in year three
The cheapest time to refuse a poor tree is before it goes in the ground. Check that species, cultivar and size match the order, that the root ball is firm and moist, that the trunk has no wounds or cracks, and that the crown has a sound structure and live buds. Then look at the roots: scrape back the top of a container or a ball to find the root flare and look for roots circling the trunk. A tree with its flare buried six inches deep in the nursery ball will be planted too deep unless someone notices.
Rejected trees get their own list, with a reason and a photo, so the nursery and the contractor see the same thing you saw.
Depth is the check that matters most
The root flare, where the trunk widens into the roots, should be visible at or just above the finished grade. A hole dug deeper than the ball lets the tree settle and sink. A wide, shallow hole with roughened sides and a firm base gives new roots somewhere to go. Burlap, twine and the upper part of any wire basket should be dealt with as the specification says, and circling roots on container stock should be straightened or cut.
Mulch, stakes and water
Mulch should spread wide and stay shallow, and it should be pulled back from the trunk so the bark stays dry. Stakes are only needed where a tree cannot stand on its own; where they are used, ties should be wide and loose enough to let the trunk move, and somebody should be named to remove them. Every tree should be watered in at planting, and someone should own the watering for the first growing seasons.
Establishment visits
Planting is the start of the job, not the end. The form keeps a list of follow-up visits, each with the tree, its vigor, soil moisture, mulch, ties and any damage, scored on its own. A tree marked Fair earns half marks and a dead one none, so the score tracks how the planting is really doing, and the visits together become the record you need before a warranty runs out.
Common questions
How deep should a tree be planted?
So that the root flare — where the trunk widens into the main roots — sits at or slightly above the finished grade. The most common planting mistake is setting the tree too deep, often because the nursery ball already had soil piled over the flare. Your project specification may give a precise tolerance.
Should new trees be staked?
Only when they cannot stand up on their own or the site is very windy or exposed to vandalism. If they are staked, use wide flexible ties, keep stakes out of the root ball, and remove everything once the tree is established, often after one growing season. A tree that can move a little grows a stronger trunk.
How much mulch should go around a new tree?
A wide ring a few inches deep is typical, often 2 to 4 inches, with the mulch pulled back from the trunk. Mulch piled against the bark, the so-called mulch volcano, keeps it wet and invites rot and pests. Follow your specification for width and depth.
How often should newly planted trees be checked?
Many specifications call for visits every few weeks during the first growing season and at least a few times in the second, plus a final check before the warranty ends. The establishment list on this form keeps one entry per tree per visit, so the history is in one place.
What counts as a failed planting check?
Any check marked Fail: a tree that does not match the order, a damaged root ball, circling roots left in place, a buried root flare, debris in the backfill, tight ties, mulch against the trunk, or a tree not watered in. N/A answers are left out of the score, and each failure becomes a finding for the corrective actions list.